To try and capture more of Kathmandu than I can by camera, and to record all the random things that make up this trip: an encyclopedia of words, places, moments. (All the Nepali words are my spelling, since the actual language uses another alphabet...)
Aunty: what the kids call us and the other house moms. I taught the kids to call me Kiki Aunty since they had trouble pronouncing Kirsten!
Bai: younger brother
Bus rides: bus rides in Kathmandu are crazy. The ceilings inside are maybe five feet tall, so if we have to stand, we all have to hunch over - while packed in so tight it's impossible to move. The ticket-taker, who rides on the step outside of the door, also works to cram as many people inside as possible, a puzzle-master of sorts. Make sure you have the right change so you don't get ripped off.
Chai: Nepali chai is sweet and heavenly. Mix black tea, cardamom, cinnamon, cloves, milk, black pepper, and tons of sugar.
Chia: tea. Nepalis drink either super sugary black tea or milk tea. Milk tea is boiled milk with black tea and sugar, and I drank it constantly at the children's home. The more, the better.
China: none. Example: when Rajn came up to me and said, "Panties china!" meaning, "I have no panties" :( Don't worry, he does have panties, but he wets his pants so much still that he runs out all the time.
Dahl bat: rice and lentils - the staple Nepali meal.
Dai: older brother
Danyabat: thank you (pronounced DAHN-ya-baht)
Didi: sister. I guess Nepalis call each other Didi, Aunty, Uncle, Bai, or Dai constantly - either attached the end of a name or all by itself.
Dogs: I really dislike the dogs in Kathmandu. They either bark, howl, or shriek all night long, especially at the children's home. And we heard two dogs die in huge dog fights two nights in a row at the kid's home. It was so horrible!
Higher Grounds: a Christian owned coffee shop close to the Debortolis that actually really looks like a western coffee shop and feels like home. And has yummy pancakes. I've only been there once but really want to go back before we leave.
Jamasi: a Christian greeting meaning victory in the Messiah (pronounced jay-mah-SEE)
KFC: not to be confused with Kentucky Fried Chicken, the Kwality Food Center serves Indian food like momos (dumplings) and naan. Lyssa and I can eat there for about 300 rupees, or barely four dollars, depending on how much naan we get...
Khokana: the village right outside Kathmandu where the children's home is located. Lots of rice fields around - it's beautiful!
Lazarus: the Debortolis' red jeep, so named because it's died and been resurrected so many times. Should fit five people, but can fit twelve... The van at the children's home, a rickety thing that should fit eight, has fit 21 Nepali kids with Gonga driving. I saw it with my own eyes, and then rode in the next trip with 14 adults and bigger kids. I don't think I need to say that there are no seatbelt laws here.
Mirinda: an orange soda, like fanta, that comes in a glass bottle. Yum!
Miro nam Kirsten ho: my name is Kirsten (pronounced MEER-oh-nam)
Mo lie chya dinus: give me tea!! (pronounced mo-LIE chee-uh din-OOS)
Motorbikes: they're everywhere. And while at the children's home, our primary transportation. Lyssa rides on the back of Nelson's and I ride on the back of Dinesh's. Slightly terrifying - Nepali roads, if paved, are dense with potholes and loose gravel, people, animals, buses, other bikes. Also exhilarating!
Naan: garlic or butter, we eat this stuff in mass quantities when we go to Indian places!
Namaste: hello! (accompanied by pressing your palms together, like in prayer). Direct translation is "I salute the gods within you" which is why "jamasi" is such a cool greeting for Christians.
Numbers: I can count from 1-10 in Nepali now! Ech, dwee, teen, char, baht, cha, saht, at, noo, das.
Pani: water
Paneer butter masala: my favorite Indian dish - butter masala with chunks of cheese.
Rupee: Nepali currency - 76 rupees to one American dollar. For 76 rupees, you could get two cokes, or eight pieces of roti, or one and a half pieces of naan, or four donuts.
Soaking: a Saturday night worship session at the Debortolis' house. Always by candlelight. We listen to a sermon podcast, have Communion, sing, sleep, praise the Lord. It's the best!
Ta piko nam kay ho: what is your name? (or timro nam kay ho for someone younger)
Tiksa: "it's all good". Most useful Nepali word to know, I say it all the time now!
Thammel: the trekking district, full of narrow shops with fake North Face (and any outdoor brand you can imagine) gear. Rumor has it you can buy three Patagonia down vests for $40...
Toe pie la danyabat: a super polite way of saying thank you, meaning "thanks to you"
Universal: a bright green, orange, red and blue cafe with delicious Indian food and the best naan in Kathmandu.
out of myth into history I move to be / part of that ordeal / whose darkness is / only now reaching me
Sunday, October 30, 2011
on being nothing
There've been some moments on this trip when I've felt like nothing. (Also moments - many of them - where I've felt full, content, happy, in awe of the Lord, excited to be here) - but several moments when I've felt like nothing.
And in general, it's draining to be living in a completely different world (in many ways), away from normal things and people that I know, living out of a backpack.
I'm still craving some healthy food, some cheese maybe, or a peanut butter and jelly sandwich, a movie night - but not for any source of perfect or lasting energy. For that, we have to go straight to the Source.
One of them was during our trek. We'd been hiking since six in the morning, and I'd been sick all afternoon as we scrambled downhill toward a river. When we got to the river, it was four o'clock, sun was setting, and we still had five hours of hiking ahead of us. Usually I love hiking, but this day had drained me of everything. I was using a walking stick, leaning on it too much, sweaty and shaky and feeling like I had nothing left inside of me. I don't know if I've ever felt that empty before.
Another couple nothing-moments happened at the beginning this week, at the children's home, after hours of playing and being pulled in 23 different directions at once - and looking at the time and realizing I still had three more hours of craziness until dinner.

And I'm realizing, in a new and intense way, that I'm nothing without Jesus. I have no strength of my own, can accomplish nothing on my own. I couldn't hike for five more hours on the trek and I couldn't play for three more hours at the children's home - not without some serious divine intervention. I've been wondering why I didn't feel like this (at least too often) during the summer, which was so busy, with my job and two internships - I think it's because at home, we have health food and energy bars, constant internet access, books and TV shows, so many things to unwind with. So when we feel empty and drained, we turn to these things for a recharge.
All of these things are good - believe me, I'd love some an energy bar right now - and I'm not bashing them in any way. I'm just realizing that they're false supports, and can make us forget that the only real recharge and refill is Jesus. Because in Nepal, especially at the children's home, none of my usual recharge strategies are available. All I have is Jesus!
"They [the Lord's people] have forsaken me, the spring of living water, and have dug their own cisterns, broken cisterns that cannot hold water." - Jeremiah 2:13I'm learning that my broken cisterns can't hold water. Even when I do have the little luxuries of internet or chocolate or a couch, they're not enough. Which is so great! I love that Jesus is the spring of living water, that when we fill up on him, we'll never go thirsty. He strengthens us with all power according to his glorious might, so that we may have great endurance and patience (Colossians 1:11). He takes great delight in us, quiets us with his love, and rejoices over us with singing (Zephaniah 3:17). This strength is thousands of times stronger than any energy bar or chocolate chip cookie. Evidence: I climbed that mountain by the light of my headlamp until 9 o'clock that night, filled with a strength that was certainly not my own (since I'd had none at the river). More evidence: after recharging with the Lord at the children's home, I couldn't believe how fast time flew and how much fun I had with those crazy kids. For the whole entire week!
I'm still craving some healthy food, some cheese maybe, or a peanut butter and jelly sandwich, a movie night - but not for any source of perfect or lasting energy. For that, we have to go straight to the Source.
Tuesday, October 25, 2011
at the children's home
Finally, after two weeks, I'm doing what I told everyone I'd be doing in Nepal...living and volunteering at an orphanage. Actually it's called a children's home because these kids aren't orphans any more - and you know it when you walk in the door. They're the loudest, kindest kids, a family of 25 with a heavenly Father. They all eat more than me. And they're so tiny!
Our first day, we played catch and hand-clap games, counted in English and sang the ABCs, worshipped in the evening and ate dahl bat (it's what they eat for every meal). It was fun but exhausting - maybe more exhausting than trekking 13 hours? Just kidding. Not really.
My favorite thing is that they all call us 'aunty' and shout it all the time at us. 'Aunty watch!' 'Aunty here!' And for some of them, aunty is the extent of their English - which makes smiles and laughter so meaningful.
Here are a couple pictures:

(the view from the roof: this area is called Khokana, and it's right outside Kathmandu. Tourist buses come here all the time because it's marketed as a real Nepali village. Compared to the villages we saw, it's not at all...)

(we taught them 'down by the banks' - a group hand clap game. 'Again, aunty, again!')

(Sita and Rajn)

(the children's home)

(the front door)

(praying during worship this morning)
It's so beautiful to see these kids, who all have sad and grim pasts, joyfully praising God, at home, learning, eating enough food. And it's beautiful to see the Nepali house parents who live here (Dinesh, Sita, Nira, Suna, and Nelson) and dedicate themselves to bringing up these kids. They are such patient people.
I've been thinking a lot about Philippians 2:
"If you have any encouragement from being united with Christ, if any comfort from his love, if any fellowship with the Spirit, if any tenderness and compassion, then make my joy complete by being like-minded, having the same love, being one in spirit and purpose. Do nothing out of selfish ambition or vain conceit, but in humility consider others better than yourselves. Each of you should look not only to your own interests, but also to the interests of others. Your attitude should be the same as that of Christ Jesus: Who, being in very nature God, did not consider equality with God something to be grasped, but made himself nothing, taking the very nature of a servant, being made in human likeness. And being found in appearance as a man, he humbled himself and became obedient to death— even death on a cross! Therefore God exalted him to the highest place and gave him the name that is above every name, that at the name of Jesus every knee should bow, in heaven and on earth and under the earth, and every tongue confess that Jesus Christ is Lord, to the glory of God the Father."
Sometimes I just want to have internet and gourmet food,a softer bed, all these selfish things, and need to remind myself that this trip is not about me. Or if it is about me in any small way, it's about me being a humble servant, which is hard.
Pray for these adorable kids! I'll post more pictures when I can.
Our first day, we played catch and hand-clap games, counted in English and sang the ABCs, worshipped in the evening and ate dahl bat (it's what they eat for every meal). It was fun but exhausting - maybe more exhausting than trekking 13 hours? Just kidding. Not really.
My favorite thing is that they all call us 'aunty' and shout it all the time at us. 'Aunty watch!' 'Aunty here!' And for some of them, aunty is the extent of their English - which makes smiles and laughter so meaningful.
Here are a couple pictures:

(the view from the roof: this area is called Khokana, and it's right outside Kathmandu. Tourist buses come here all the time because it's marketed as a real Nepali village. Compared to the villages we saw, it's not at all...)

(we taught them 'down by the banks' - a group hand clap game. 'Again, aunty, again!')

(Sita and Rajn)

(the children's home)

(the front door)

(praying during worship this morning)
It's so beautiful to see these kids, who all have sad and grim pasts, joyfully praising God, at home, learning, eating enough food. And it's beautiful to see the Nepali house parents who live here (Dinesh, Sita, Nira, Suna, and Nelson) and dedicate themselves to bringing up these kids. They are such patient people.
I've been thinking a lot about Philippians 2:
"If you have any encouragement from being united with Christ, if any comfort from his love, if any fellowship with the Spirit, if any tenderness and compassion, then make my joy complete by being like-minded, having the same love, being one in spirit and purpose. Do nothing out of selfish ambition or vain conceit, but in humility consider others better than yourselves. Each of you should look not only to your own interests, but also to the interests of others. Your attitude should be the same as that of Christ Jesus: Who, being in very nature God, did not consider equality with God something to be grasped, but made himself nothing, taking the very nature of a servant, being made in human likeness. And being found in appearance as a man, he humbled himself and became obedient to death— even death on a cross! Therefore God exalted him to the highest place and gave him the name that is above every name, that at the name of Jesus every knee should bow, in heaven and on earth and under the earth, and every tongue confess that Jesus Christ is Lord, to the glory of God the Father."
Sometimes I just want to have internet and gourmet food,a softer bed, all these selfish things, and need to remind myself that this trip is not about me. Or if it is about me in any small way, it's about me being a humble servant, which is hard.
Pray for these adorable kids! I'll post more pictures when I can.
Friday, October 21, 2011
...all that we have accomplished you have done for us
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himalayas from the plane window! |
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excited to be landing in Nepal! |
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lhasa, tibet (layover) |
Lyssa and I got to Kathmandu on October 10th, after a nearly 40 hour travel day. The next day, we set off for rural Nepal on a rickety bus, with backpacks and hiking boots and no idea what we were heading into.
The team:
Joel Debortoli: the missionary Lyssa knows through her church. Six foot eight inches tall, carted around a 90 pound backpack all week long. Truly seeking after the heart of the Lord for Nepal.
Jordan Debortoli: his 14 year old son, who kept us distracted on long trekking days with senseless and silly riddles.
D and B: an amazing missionary couple, names omitted because of where the Lord is calling them, full of stories of God's grace on their lives. LOVED getting to know them.
Kyle and Annie: a Canadian couple serving with Iris. They've been in Nepal since April. And they pronounce house "hoose" like all good Canadians.
Ryan and Katie: an American couple who's been in Nepal since April, like Kyle and Annie, but aren't working with Iris. Ryan is an engineer, and he's working on a water project in Dadhuwa, the second village we trekked to.
Gonga, Nelson, Babu, and Dinesh: four Nepali guys who work with Iris and are possibly the most Christ-like men I've ever met. It was an honor to see their fire and passion for the Lord. Also, they're hilarious. My favorite Gonga quote: when someone told him that he was the man, he said "Yes, I am 100% man."
The Kona YWAM team: Hayley, Cody, Jen, Sarah, Sarah (or Sarah Squared), Amy, Scott, Don, and Chris are from all over the States, serving in Nepal for three months as part of their six month YWAM training. Like me, most of them had never seen anything like the things we saw on this trip, and were completely excited and honored to be doing God's work in rural Nepal.
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tired hikers |
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mountains over puma |
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washing dishes |
Day two: I'm honestly not that familiar with receiving words from the Lord. To be completely honest, I'd barely heard about it until I came to Nepal. But after Puma, where most people looked completely blank when we asked if they'd heard of Jesus Christ, I believe that this word, Puma, was definitely from the Lord. We spent the morning perched on the edges of the village's steep paths, reading our Bibles and looking up again and again at the Himalayas, so close-looking I could almost touch them but so far away and vast.
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puma (our view as we prayed) |
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i love doors! (also where we prayed) |
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puma is gorgeous |
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roti |
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dahl bat and veg curry |
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morning light, himalayas |
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games with the kids |
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sunrise over puma |
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i loved hiking along right next to the HIMALAYAS! |
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not clouds. mountains! |
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terraced rice fields in the foreground |
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so much green, my camera couldn't handle it |
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dried corn, dadhuwa |
Our team spent the whole afternoon praying in Dadhuwa, experiencing more healings and a beautiful openness to the Lord. I got to join in later, for the evening. Cool backstory: Dadhuwa's church had three people before last week. Ryan and Katie, the engineering couple, have stayed at the believers's home there several times while working on their water project - Dadhuwa used to have easy access to water until an earthquake changed the water table fifty years ago, so now their water source dries up soon after the monsoon. They have to walk 30 minutes to get to the nearest source of drinking water. So Ryan and Katie's connection with the village is strong.
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nepali woman |
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prayer |
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laying hands |
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finally in the valley! |
We hiked out to Bangrabeshi, our last village, after the morning of prayer. The hike was super steep downhill, painful on my knees. The humidity stuck. I've never sweated so much in my life as I did on this trek - every hiking day, I was soaked from head to toe, day four included. But a beautiful thing happened at the bottom of our descent. A river! After crossing on a bridge of three logs tied together, we ditched our packs and stinky shoes and jumped in the water. It was cold and clear and soothing, and we washed our hair and faces, then just sat half-submerged on rocks and ate lemon and chocolate biscuits, stared at the green hills and were overjoyed by the beauty of it. And the total freedom of dunking in a river in all my clothes and not caring one bit!
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the river |
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we washed our hair! |
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our beauty salon |
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so clean and so happy |
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the valley as we hiked out |
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kids watching, bangrabeshi |
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nepali kids are so tiny |
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beautiful flowers, hike between dadhuwa and bangrabeshi |
Tuesday, October 18, 2011
from kathmandu with apologies
I'm sitting in a coffee shop called Higher Grounds in Kathmandu, Nepal, listening to traffic outside and catching up on my journal. I just ate the best, fluffiest, biggest pancakes ever, for only 220 rupees (about $2.80) and drank two cups of black coffee (about 75 cents each). Food here is cheap and Western food like this is a delicacy - possibly confusing and dangerous for my stomach after seven days of eating nothing but dahl bat in remote Nepali villages.
I've obviously meant to blog a lot more than I have so far, and will, but this is Asia. Meaning that China blocks Blogger (and Facebook), so I couldn't access this at all for 10 days, and then we spent our first week in Nepal trekking through remote villages near the Annapurna region, having crazy experiences that I haven't even begun to process and eating nothing but dahl bat (rice and lentils, with vegetable curry) for breakfast, lunch and dinner.
Which brings me back to the pancakes and coffee, and the tomato soup that I'm going to have for lunch since we might be here all day, and the strangeness of city (noise, smog, cars, motorbikes, no quiet terraces of rice or soaring Himalayan peaks), and the million things I want to blog about - and will - as soon as I drink this coffee and figure out how to share (testify about, explain, communicate to a Western culture and my own Western mind) exactly what happened this week.
I've obviously meant to blog a lot more than I have so far, and will, but this is Asia. Meaning that China blocks Blogger (and Facebook), so I couldn't access this at all for 10 days, and then we spent our first week in Nepal trekking through remote villages near the Annapurna region, having crazy experiences that I haven't even begun to process and eating nothing but dahl bat (rice and lentils, with vegetable curry) for breakfast, lunch and dinner.
Which brings me back to the pancakes and coffee, and the tomato soup that I'm going to have for lunch since we might be here all day, and the strangeness of city (noise, smog, cars, motorbikes, no quiet terraces of rice or soaring Himalayan peaks), and the million things I want to blog about - and will - as soon as I drink this coffee and figure out how to share (testify about, explain, communicate to a Western culture and my own Western mind) exactly what happened this week.
Friday, September 23, 2011
outside history
I first read Eavan Boland's poem in the UK last fall. I don't remember where I was - I wish I did - probably curled up with a mug of tea at one of the study centers we stayed at, heavy Irish poetry anthology in my lap, near a window. Anyway, I do remember that it gave me shivers.
In the poem, Boland's stars are outside history. They're untouchable and untouched, their light reaching us from hundreds and hundreds of years ago, existing outside our sphere of reality. Boland mourns the stars - their inability to reach anything, touch anything, to step from myth into reality. They are always cold and distant.
As Boland mourns the stars, she mourns her own distance from history, using an image of hordes of starving Irish, unsave-able and doomed during the Famine times. Like the stars, she's too late. Her poem ends with the refrain, 'and we are too late / we are always too late.' Too late to save the victims of history and too late to save the victims of the Troubles - of hatred, violence, the cycle of unforgetting - in modern day Ireland.
(It reminds me of a hauntingly similar quote in a Seattle Times article about the Sudan famine - an aid worker warning that any aid is already too late for thousands.)
I read this poem a couple times this summer, always in an attempt, I think, to reach back through history to my own time in Ireland and the learning and stretching that happened there. Too late, like the star's light, of course, but I also found other meaning as I read and reread. Could I be like those stars for Nepal? Always existing outside its history, its recent political turbulence, its poverty, I'm barely able to see it from so far away. And now I'm stepping from outside history into the darkness (spiritual, political, human) of an ordeal (or a country, a history, a people), that's just now reaching me. Briefly, with less than enough knowledge of culture and language and history, to do what I'm not sure, but here's the twist: with Jesus Christ, it's never too late, never too late. Which changes the entire poem.
In the poem, Boland's stars are outside history. They're untouchable and untouched, their light reaching us from hundreds and hundreds of years ago, existing outside our sphere of reality. Boland mourns the stars - their inability to reach anything, touch anything, to step from myth into reality. They are always cold and distant.
As Boland mourns the stars, she mourns her own distance from history, using an image of hordes of starving Irish, unsave-able and doomed during the Famine times. Like the stars, she's too late. Her poem ends with the refrain, 'and we are too late / we are always too late.' Too late to save the victims of history and too late to save the victims of the Troubles - of hatred, violence, the cycle of unforgetting - in modern day Ireland.
(It reminds me of a hauntingly similar quote in a Seattle Times article about the Sudan famine - an aid worker warning that any aid is already too late for thousands.)
I read this poem a couple times this summer, always in an attempt, I think, to reach back through history to my own time in Ireland and the learning and stretching that happened there. Too late, like the star's light, of course, but I also found other meaning as I read and reread. Could I be like those stars for Nepal? Always existing outside its history, its recent political turbulence, its poverty, I'm barely able to see it from so far away. And now I'm stepping from outside history into the darkness (spiritual, political, human) of an ordeal (or a country, a history, a people), that's just now reaching me. Briefly, with less than enough knowledge of culture and language and history, to do what I'm not sure, but here's the twist: with Jesus Christ, it's never too late, never too late. Which changes the entire poem.
Friday, September 9, 2011
the next adventure
So I gave my two-week's notice at work today. This means that I'll be finishing up two weeks from tomorrow. It was definitely freeing to say hey, I'm peacing out to go to Asia for a while, see you all later, but also sad, because I really like my restaurant.
Working there has been a huge growing experience. I've learned how to do a million things at once, how to shout CORNER loudly, how to balance the give and take of intense teamwork, and how to act like I'm calm and cool under pressure and stress, even when my brain is kind of exploding. And I've learned how to always be cheerful and kind with customers, even when they're being picky or rude, and how to look beyond the perfect 20% tip -- and instead, just plain enjoy taking care of people no matter what they leave lying on the table.
Even though I feel like I've spent three quarters of my summer in the back zone, steaming in spaghetti smells and sweating like crazy, calling back baked chickens and taking orders and running food around, (and this bothered me for a while, that I hadn't had my usual, lazy summer), I will miss it. Especially the people I work with, who always make me laugh.
But. On the 24th, I'll clock out for the last time (at least for a while), and I'll be on to the next adventure. Nepal and China, here we come!
Working there has been a huge growing experience. I've learned how to do a million things at once, how to shout CORNER loudly, how to balance the give and take of intense teamwork, and how to act like I'm calm and cool under pressure and stress, even when my brain is kind of exploding. And I've learned how to always be cheerful and kind with customers, even when they're being picky or rude, and how to look beyond the perfect 20% tip -- and instead, just plain enjoy taking care of people no matter what they leave lying on the table.
Even though I feel like I've spent three quarters of my summer in the back zone, steaming in spaghetti smells and sweating like crazy, calling back baked chickens and taking orders and running food around, (and this bothered me for a while, that I hadn't had my usual, lazy summer), I will miss it. Especially the people I work with, who always make me laugh.
But. On the 24th, I'll clock out for the last time (at least for a while), and I'll be on to the next adventure. Nepal and China, here we come!
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